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49 Photos
Updated:
1/2005
Numbers in parentheses,
such as (ADK #123, McM #456) R
on this and all other
pages of Adirondack Journey, refer to trail numbers assigned by the ADK and
McMartin guidebooks and the color of the trail discs marking the
trail.
The Lower Range
The Great Range is an imposing mountain range in the
Adirondacks consisting of seven 4000-footers standing in a tidy row running NE to SW, bordered on its southern flank by Upper and Lower Ausable
Lakes, and on its northern flank by Johns Brook. Because of its length as
well as the location of points of ingress and egress, hikers usually split up the Great Range
into two hikes... Upper Range and Lower
Range. Lower Range consists of Gothics, Armstrong, Upper Wolf Jaws, and Lower Wolf Jaws.
It has one more peak than Upper Range, but is more convenient to the trailheads and
is somewhat less demanding than Upper Range in the peak-to-peak
traverse. Lower Range is most often hiked
either from the Garden
trailhead or the Ausable Club trailhead. We
have Lower Range done round-trip from the trailhead as a day-hike by the very
hardy, as an overnight, or as a 3-day trip for those who light to stop and smell
the roses, who want to add in one or two quick hikes in addition to Lower Range,
or who just enjoy relaxing in the woods. But most hikers will choose to
make this either an overnight or a 3-day trip. In the latter case, one
would usually hike in on Day 1, hike Lower Range on Day 2, and hike out on Day
3. The three day option looks very good
when considering the various options to take a lean-to or lodging at Johns Brook
Lodge. The nearness of the lodge to the peaks opens up opportunities for
various side trips, our favorite being to hike Yard and Big Slide as an optional
half day loop. For those wanting or needing to camp over the best
camping will be from the Garden trailhead via the
Yellow
Northside Trail
(ADK#1, McM#108) or the Red Southside Trail (ADK#3, McM#111) .
Access from JBL covered on the hike which here:
- The Garden trailhead to Johns Brook Lodge
- Loop from JBL of the
Lower Range: Gothics, Armstrong, Upper Wolf Jaws, and Lower Wolf Jaws
Peak View Rankings Printable
Version
Difficulty:
The loop from Johns Brook Lodge (JBL) is best hiked counterclockwise over the entire Lower
Range starting at Johns Brook. It is quite strenuous
due to the
rocky and uneven terrain, the overall length of
the route (8 miles), and a number of steep and very steep
ascents and descents. The terrain poses numerous obstacles such
as ledges and steep, open rock faces. This hike is best undertaken with an
experienced hiker in the group. No special skills or
equipment are required, but the ascent of Gothics via the Ore Bed Brook Trail is intimidating for anyone with a
fear of standing in the wind on steep, exposed rock sometimes without a
handhold. The danger is more one of perception than reality, but that
argument doesn't carry much weight for someone uncomfortable in a very
exposed position. The other side of
the coin is that this is nearly our favorite hike in the Adirondacks and one of the most
exhilarating. Gothics will
occupy a special place in your memory, too.
The upper reaches of the Blue
Ore Bed
Brook Trail (ADK #8, McM #119)
and the climb of Gothics from the
Saddleback col are both steep.
Both Upper and Lower Wolf Jaws are steep, requiring negotiation of a number of ledges
that slow
the pace considerably. Some hikers will panic during the ascent of Gothics with its steep, open rock
faces. We encountered two such persons on our
hike. One of them had hiked the Adirondacks for many years. With
some coaching on our behalf they both made it up the steep, wind-blown slopes.
Note that there is
no place on this route where a person cannot stand
safely on a calm, dry day. Further, in 2005 the rangers have
installed a new cable for those person with the jitters to hang onto as they
ascend.
Best Tip for
Lower Range
Gothics is possibly the most fun hike in the Adirondacks. Try to pick a beautiful day for climbing. Savor, not only the Lower
Range, but the Upper Range, too, when you get around to doing it.
These are the crème de la crème of the Adirondacks. |
Views:
Gothics offers stellar views of many peaks including the rest of the
Great
Range, the Colvin Range, the Dixes, and
Marcy. This is in addition to Gothics being
probably the most awe-inspiring peak in the Adirondacks. Armstrong and Upper and
the Wolf Jaws pale in comparison, lacking the panoramic quality of Gothics and
the massive bare rock surfaces. But all
three offer significant views in one direction or another. Lower Wolf Jaws
has good views back toward the Range. Also, its sheltered summit
has a certain charm and warmth. While there in 2002 we encountered a
married couple who claimed it was their favorite peak due to the nice summit.
Route In A Nutshell:
1. From JBL, moderate hiking most of the way, then steep hiking with a
few short, very steep sections from JBL to the
Gothics-Saddleback col via the Ore Bed Brook Trail.
2. Steep and very steep hiking from the col to the summit of Gothics over
primarily smooth rock
face. The trail up the face occasionally passes through small
islands of conifers which provide good shelter in case of wind. A very
strong, flexible cable is provided over most of the ascent by DEC to assist those
wanting added security during the climb.
3. Easy traverse from Gothics' false summit to its true summit.
Easy-to-moderate hiking from Gothics to Armstrong and Upper Wolf
Jaws.
4. The descent from Upper Wolf Jaws to the pass between Upper and Lower
Wolf Jaws is steep and involves negotiating a number of 5-10 foot
ledges. However, it is entirely in wooded terrain with lots of handholds.
5. Ascent of Lower Wolf Jaws is quite steep
in a number places. Care is warranted. LWJ's summit is reached 0.5 miles from the
pass and 660 vertical feet above it.
6. Moderate descent to Johns Brook Lodge via the Wolf
Jaw Brook Trail from the Wolf Jaws' pass.
Drinking Water:
Plan ahead! Once on the Lower or
Upper Range Trail, there will be no more sources of water. Even those using a
hydration pack might consider topping off their water supply at the last
water.
Trail Notes:
Ore Bed Brook Trail takes you from JBL to the Gothics-Saddleback
col. It was a nicely groomed trail and a pleasure to hike in
1999 when this hike was first taken. It is a moderate ascent over half to three
quarters of its length, but it becomes steep and difficult in the last seven hundred vertical
feet that deposit you in the aforementioned col. This distance involves
steep climbing on wet, slippery rock aided by
ladders. On one hand the ladders eliminate having to walk on
slippery rock, but on the other hand, the ladders themselves are
tricky. Unfortunately, the heavy rains that dominated the weather throughout 2000
dramatically worsened the trail conditions on OBBT.
We traversed it again in 2000 as the last stage of a trip over Basin and
Saddleback. Even though we were hiking in darkness we could see that
the footing had deteriorated significantly.
Further description of the trails
accompanies the photos below.
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Terrific View of the 3
peaks climbed
on this hike taken from Yard Mtn.
(Photo courtesy of
Elaine Serafini.)
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Trip Suggestions:
Johns Brook Lodge, operated by the Adirondack Mountain Club, is the ideal
base camp for climbs of the Lower or Upper Range or other nearby peaks. JBL has
lean-tos and the lodge itself available, plus special accommodations for
larger groups. A bunk at JBL runs about $35.00. A lean-to is
roughly $12.00. If you elect to take a bunk meals including a hearty trail lunch
are included. Those not bunking in the lodge cannot buy their
meals there.
Lower Range USGS Trail Maps
| Hike is a counterclockwise loop starting at JBL (red
"home plate" symbol) on Map 1. Runs SSW along Ore Bed
Brook. |
Map
1 |
| Climbs out of the Saddleback-Gothics col to summit,
consecutively, of Gothics, Armstrong and Upper Wolf Jaws, returning to
JBL. |
Map
2 |
Please read these
IMPORTANT
NOTES,
TERMS OF USE, and DISCLAIMERS
Gothics from Johns Brook Lodge via the BLUE
Ore Bed Brook Trail (ADK
#7, #8, & #4; McM #109, #119 & #118)
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BLUE
Trail
to Gothics-Saddleback col from JBL
1
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The photo
shows Ore Bed Brook, which runs next to the trail that borrows its
name (ADK #8, McM #119). The brook cascades over moss-covered rock about 2/3 of the way from JBL to the trail's
terminus at the col between Gothics and Saddleback. The trail stays to the left of
the brook most of the way up to the col.
From about
2800' onward the OBBT becomes steep and then very steep, yet the excellent
woodland scenery takes your mind
off the added effort demanded by the trail. Well-maintained ladders are a
considerable aid in the more difficult spots. Occasionally, the trail
runs over steep, smooth rock, particularly as it nears the col. The
brook can make these passages wet, mossy, and slippery.
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2 |
Ore
Bed Brook for which the trail from JBL to the Saddleback-Gothics col is
named.
Water: If, like many hikers, you are doing a loop,
either west over Saddleback and Basin, or east over Gothics, Armstrong, and Upper
Wolf Jaws; note that the last water is when you leave Ore Bed Brook.
If, on the other hand, you are ascending via the Wolf Jaws Trail (McM 117, ADK
4) from Johns Brook, you will
find your last water in the stream that the trail follows just prior to entering the Wolf Jaws col. |
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3
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The top of the Ore Bed Brook Trail opens into
the col between Saddleback and Gothics. To the left is the exciting
ascent of Gothics, and to the right the trail leads up Saddleback.
Our route on this day was over Gothics, Armstrong, and Upper Wolf
Jaws. |

Photo courtesy of
Elaine Serafini
4
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The most exciting part of climbing
Gothics is the ascent of the western summit from the Gothics-Saddleback col. Here
the trail is almost entirely over bare rock with islands of soil here and there, typically
held in place by a dozen or so very tenacious conifers. Several plastic-coated steel
cables are installed on the trail. Watching them in action as several
parties climbed this segment of Gothics, it seemed that the cables were
just
a means to overcome fear, a security blanket, but in a wind they would
become a real necessity for climbing. More than
half of the hikers used them. Afraid of heights myself, I found them useful at first.
Once I became accustomed to the new experience of being on fairly steep,
open rock, my fear disappeared (mostly), at which time the cable seemed
only to be slowing me down. It was exhilarating to leave it behind.
Linda of ADK's Albany Chapter goes for the gusto in this shot.
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5
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Still
on the way up Gothics. Short sections with trees on either side of
the exposed rock "trail" are common, but most segments are more
exposed. This thicket offers an opportunity to get out of the wind.
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6 |
View
of Saddleback with Basin just
behind. Haystack is in the blue haze. Taken on Gothics, not far up
from the Gothics - Saddleback col. |
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Photo courtesy of Elaine
Serafini
7
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Further
up Gothics, a view of "layers"
of mountains: Saddleback, Basin, and Haystack Mts of the Upper
Range. |
8
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The
view SE. Dix is the highest peak, dead center
in the hazy background. The slides on Dix's eastern salient are just visible. In
front of Dix is Nippletop. Its tremendous slide is clearly visible on
Nipple Top's
west slope. The slide disappears behind Mt. Colvin which is barely
visible. Just in front of Colvin
lies Sawteeth (right side of photo, heavily shaded). A ridge is
visible running from Sawteeth to Pyramid, the knob right in the foreground
with the exposed rock face. Behind Pyramid to the left but far in
the distance is the rounded summit of Dial Mtn.
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9
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Photo
starts at Upper Ausable Lake at the left. It looks deep
into the Marcy Stillwater, past an unnamed pond to Boreas Pond and, to its
left, Boreas Mtn. Moose Mtn appears as a sharply defined
"bump" in the center of the photo. Allen Mtn is barely
visible to the right of Moose and further back. It's mostly hidden
behind the legs of Haystack which form the skyline at the extreme right of
the photo. In front of Haystack in the lower right corner of the
photo, Basin rises from the Ausable Valley
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10
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Those contemplating a hike over the Upper Range peaks
of Saddleback, Basin, and Haystack have this to look forward to! This is a strenuous
hike, but worth it. On this day, we were headed in the other
direction, east.
The near peak just left of center in the photo is the west (lower) peak of
Gothics. Its far side is mostly exposed rock and has cables installed on it to aid
hikers. Just beyond it and to the right you see the rounded twin peaks of
Saddleback. Then, in the middle rear, is Basin Mtn, showing its exposed rock face.
The pointy peak between Basin and Saddleback is a part of Basin. Haystack is
to the left of Basin to the rear. Directly above the summit of Basin you can see the
summit of Mt. Marcy.
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11
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Adirondack
Journey team on Gothics.
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12
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Surveyor's
benchmark at the summit. |

13
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It's
a short walk from the SW summit (a false summit) to the true or NE summit
of Gothics. The view to the SE is terrific, providing a look at a
number of High Peaks. At the very left of this photo a knob is
clearly visible... Dix Mtn. High in the background is Dix Mtn with
slides on its NW salient showing. In front of Dix is the Dial-Nipple
Top ridgeline. The summit of Nipple Top is marked by a
long slide disappearing to the NW behind Mt Colvin. In front of
Colvin in the right foreground is Sawteeth.
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14
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Panorama
S from Gothic's summit. Nipple Top
(with slide) and the Colvin Range. Pyramid pokes up in the
foreground with Sawteeth just behind it and in front of Colvin. |
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15
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Looking
SW back toward Saddleback, Basin, Haystack, and Marcy from Gothics' true
summit or NE summit. The tiny peak just to the left of the guy in
the hat is the SW summit or false summit of Gothics. In the foreground to
the left From the summit the view are better to the SE. Views to the
S or SW are best from the SW summit. Views from both are
outstanding!
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Ascent of Armstrong and Upper Wolf Jaws from
Gothics via the RED
Lower Range Trail (ADK #4, McM #118 )
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16
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Upper Range in the rearview mirror. View of the
Upper Range from a point NE of Gothics. The last good view of the Upper Range.
The sun had moved behind a cloud to vividly accent Gothics' false summit. What a mountain! The most exciting climb we've ever
made.
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18
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Armstrong
and Upper Wolf Jaws from the Range Trail, past Gothics, heading NE. Next stop:
Armstrong Mtn. This is like entering another world after the
wonderful trek up and over Gothics. Now we are in a dense, haunting
forest of tree hulks and low conifers. Both Armstrong and Upper Wolf Jaws are
under-whelming after the experience of Gothics.
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19
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Gothics' south face and Pyramid. We
reached the col between Gothics and Armstrong. Looking back we saw
that the path had turned East far enough that we could see Gothics' slides
tumbling down toward the AMR and Lower Ausable Lake.
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Left
20
Right
21
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Armstrong and its ridgeline. These two photos of
Armstrong overlap as shown.
Walking is easy to the summit of Armstrong, but
the scenery is dismal en route. The view from the main overlook is
shown on the next photo
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22
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Armstrong
and the Upper Range from Upper Wolf Jaws. |
23
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Gothics
and the Upper Range from Armstrong's summit. Armstrong
offers this one great view looking back from whence we came. |
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24
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Lower
Wolf Jaws from Upper Wolf Jaws.
In this photo, besides Lower Wolf Jaws, Giant is visible in the haze. |
25
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Lower
Wolf Jaws. This photo is courtesy of Kevin Rooney and was probably
taken from the vicinity of Bear Den Mtn. |

26
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Lower
Wolf Jaws and the false peak of Upper Wolf Jaws from the summit of Upper
Wolf Jaws. |

27
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Trail
from Upper Wolf Jaws summit to its false peak.
Once the false peak is reached, the steep descent into the col between the
two Wolf Jaws begins. |
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Descending
into the Wolf Jaws col from Upper Wolf Jaws. |

29 |
Descending
into the Wolf Jaws col from Upper Wolf Jaws. |
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28
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30
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Descending
into the Wolf Jaws col from Upper Wolf Jaws. |

31
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Descending
into the Wolf Jaws col from Upper Wolf Jaws. |

32
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Descending
into the Wolf Jaws col from Upper Wolf Jaws. |

33
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Descending
into the Wolf Jaws col from Upper Wolf Jaws. |
| Ascent
of Lower Wolf Jaws via the RED
Lower Range Trail (ADK #5 &
#32, McM #117)
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34
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Lower
Wolf Jaws from the col.
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35
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Closer
view of cliffs on LWJ from the col.
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36
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Directions
out of the col toward LWJ.
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37
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The
Range Trail to the summit of LWJ.
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38
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Ascent
of LWJ.
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39
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Ascent
of LWJ. |

40
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Ascent
of LWJ. |

41 |
A
close look at a map shows that a little zig-zag is necessary on one of the
Ausable Club's ATIS trail to get from the col onto the Range Trail
ascending LWJ. This sign clarifies the route to LWJ versus the route
down to the Ausable Club via the AMR (Adirondack Mountain Reserve).
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42
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Another
look at the slides on LWJ shows we've climbed most of the way to the
summit on one of LWJ's ridges. |

43
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Linda
climbs one of several ledges going up Lower Wolf Jaws |

44
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At the summit of LWJ, 2 signs offer
directions up and down the Range Trail. This sign directs us back
the way we came.
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45
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This sign directs you to the long descent
to Rte 73, generally following Deer Brook.
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46
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We
joined a congenial group at the summit of LWJ, including Paul and Annette
Marcus and their daughters, Jessica and Miriam. At the moment, we
don't have the group photo taken of them, but it's coming! |

47
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Summit
views from Lower Wolf Jaws are quite nice. Haze prevented us from
good views to the Colvin Range, Dial, and Nipple Top, but this view SW of
the Lower Range and the slide on Upper Wolf Jaw is quite good. |

48
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This
view is more to the W. |

49 |
Another
bunch of hikers on Lower Wolf Jaw. |
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This page was last updated on 09/11/06 08:28 PM
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